If you use a computer . . . and it gets cold where you live . . . then you know all about mouse hand. That ice cold hand that's using the computer mouse.
And if you get "mouse hand" then you need fingerless gloves or arm warmers!
(and if you're Meg, don't look as this is what will be mailed to you in a few days!)
I made one for me a few days ago.
Since then I've revised the pattern and added some fun funky stripes for Meg.
Now, you can buy arm warmers or fingerless gloves. Some of my favorite can be found at sockdreams.com. But, if you are a knitter and want to know my pattern, then I've put together mine below. I found the basic pattern online by googling "knit arm warmers" but I revised it to fit my knitting preferences and the stripe I wanted.
(and note, I'm not an expert knitter. And I have my quirks. Such as I despise the first row after casting on. Despise. And I really only like to perl. So, I perl the first row after casting on. Regardless of what is called for in the pattern! And I have a favorite set of knitting needles. Size 7. If at all possible, I tweak patterns to fit my size needles!)
Ice Cold Mouse Hand Hand Warmers by Beth
(original pattern modified from this one I found online)
Supplies:
- Two colors of yarn (I used basic acrylic as I wanted something sturdy and washable. There's prettier yarns out there but for this, I wanted something sturdy, washable, AND pretty!)
- Size 7 knitting needles
- Not needed but helpful: stitch markers, row counter, yarn needle
(two notes: Cast on and bind off loosely so cuffs will be a bit stretchy. When switching colors leave a good 8 inches or so for seaming at the end.)
Cast on 38 stitches, loosely, of color #1.
Perl (or knit) first row across.
(you can start right in the rib stitch as described below, this is just my preference)
Work in knit 1, perl 1 rib for about two inches.
(I did 10 rows of rib.)
Switch to color #2 and begin Stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, perl 1 row). Complete 4 rows in color #2.
Switch back to color #1. Continue Stockinette stitch in color #1 for 6 rows.
Switch to color #2. Stockinette stitch for 4 rows.
Switch to color #1. Stockinette stitch for 8 rows.
Now we start something a bit more exciting!
Switch to color #2. Continue the Stockinette stitch for 2 more rows.
On the next row, still in color #2, knit 2 stitches. In the next stitch, increase 1 stitch, then slip the stitch marker on your needle. (A safety pin would work as well but a stitch marker is easy AND fun!) Continue to knit. Three stitches before the end of the row, slip on your stitch marker. In the next stitch, increase one stitch then knit to end of row. You should know have 40 stitches on your needle.
Perl back.
(If you are doing the increases correctly, you'll see the stitch markers move in from the end. They should each move in towards the middle the same amount each time you knit a row. Just remember to increase BEFORE the first marker and increase AFTER the second marker.)
Switch to color #1.
Knit to before stitch marker. On the stitch before the marker, increase one stitch. Knit to next marker. On the first stitch after the marker, increase one stitch. (You should know have 42 stitches on your needle.)
Perl back.
Continue the last 2 steps for 2 more sets of rows, increasing on the knit, perling back. After these 4 rows you should have 46 stitches on your needle.
(This is where that row counter comes in handy but a piece of paper and pencil works just as well!)
So, you have now knitted a total of 6 rows in color #1.
Switch to color #2. Knit to before stitch marker. On the stitch before the marker, increase one stitch. Knit to next marker. On the first stitch after the marker, increase.
Perl back.
Repeat, once, those last two steps in that same color #2. You should have a total of 50 stitches on your needle.
Bind off in knit, the first 8 stitches. (You should bind off to your first stitch marker.)
Knit the remainder of the row.
Bind off in perl, the first 8 stitches. (You should bind off to your first stitch marker.)
Perl the remainder of the row.
You should now have 34 stitches on your needle.
Switch back to color #1. (last switch!!) Work in rib (knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch) for the next 8 rows.
Bind off, loosely, in rib pattern.
The knitting is done!
To finish, put together in reverse. Take those loose ends and, with a yarn needle, starting at the top (the 8 rows you just finished) seam together the top ribs down the side.
You'll then come to the thumb hole. Leave that open.
Skip down to the end of those 8 stitches you bound off and start seaming down. I switched colors on the way down, depending on the stripe color to match using those loose ends from switching colors. It's not necessary but is a nicer finish.
End with the bottom rib, leaving the bottom open to slip your hand in!
Weave in all other loose ends and snip loose ends.
Repeat for second glove. I switched the colors so they are opposite matches!
Wear.
Keep warm.
Smile.
Keep "mouse-ing!"
And for those of you that are instruction impaired, like me, here's the picture I drew of the row counts and color switches!
First 10 rows (plus 1 because of my inability to do anything but perl after casting on) is a rib pattern (knit 1 stitch, perl 1 stitch). Then the stockinette stitch for the next 36 rows (knit 1 row, perl 1 row) switching colors as indicated and increasing rows on knits as indicated. Then bind off first 8 stitches of next 2 rows as described above. Then rib pattern for the top.
And if you make one, let me see it!! I'm hoping to make one more set but I need to sort through my yarn to see what colors I have!
